Discovering Textiles from across the world

In a similar vein, to provide a distinct identity to crafts handmade in India whether it is products, accessories or fabrics, AIACA – (All India Artisan and Craftworkers Welfare Association) has launched the craft mark. AIACA licences the craftmark to businesses, NGOs, Self Help Groups and Cooperatives for use on its products, tickets or labels. The biggest advantage of having a craftmark is that it is a distinguishes between products which are machine made. It also sees to it that the consumer is not conned into buying a machine made product as a handmade product. Broadly, Craftmark certifies or stands for the fact that the product has been made without the use of child labour and the guarantees the hand made process of the craft. The Craftmark has its own developed system of rating and standards. It has also compiled processes as used in the various craft in the country be it Kalamkari, Sujni, Mangalgiri weaving or tie and dye. Craftmark also organizes symposiums, workshops, has stor...

 In the arena of labeling and certification, The Flower a voluntary scheme which encourages businesses to market and sell products and services that are “kinder to the environment”.   There was a time when if a product was produced in the handloom, the seller said so and the buyer bought it in good faith. The honesty of the word of mouth might persist but to give credence there has been brought in place a system of labeling and certification. Each set of label has its distinct benefits, advantages and lays down certain criterion for selection. There is also put in place a scheme for marketing so that the certificate holder gets the benefit of putting on the label.   The Flower as it is popularly called is the symbol of the European Eco label. The label is given for a host of categories excluding pharma products. It is a voluntary scheme which encourages businesses to market and sell products and services that are “kinder to the environment”. The presence of the mark h...

 One of the most widely accepted and strictly enforced is REACH. Regulating the use of chemicals in the process of manufacture, this certification from Europe has had far reaching ramification with manufacturers / importers & exporters to EU rushing to be REACH compliant. REACH is the regulation by the European Community on chemicals and their safe use. It looks at the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemical substances. REACH is made up of the first letters of each of the above in the definition. It came into existence as a law in June 2007. The reason for its enforcement was the wide prevalence of using chemicals in the growing / manufacturing processes which had harmful side effects. A large amount of chemicals was being used, with little or no information on its effects or what it was. This was a process of gathering the information to provide greater safety, responsibility in its handling. Another problem was that the policy on the use of chem...

World over, there are a number of certifications available. What is pertinent, is to choose that which fits the products of the business. To be precise, the certification which adds value to the products and is a step forward in the process of brand creation. Since the process of obtaining the certification is long drawn out requiring considerable paper work and internal controls, it is better to go in for that which suits the product. And at the same time is valued by the customer. Many of the certification are tilted towards the broad based concepts of eco-friendly, fair trade or ethical business practices. In this piece we look at another three such practices which are gaining in popularity. Many of these certificates are de rigor in the Western world and developed countries. With India aiming to reach the same levels and a section of the population slowly getting used to similar standards as abroad, it will not be long before these are accepted practices in India and customers actu...

The word Malai brings to mind, the creamy part of milk. It is eaten with gusto and is considered a delicacy in some parts of the country. So what does the same word Malai have to do with vegan leather, you wonder. Why is it called so? The reason becomes apparent when you discover that it is actually a kind of malai like formation which forms the base of the vegan leather…yes and it is edible though not tried!!! Innovations in textiles is the buzzword today. The thrust of all research to come out with eco friendly textiles which impact the environment little. The objective to recycle, reduce and reuse. There have been several interesting innovations, one that has garnered a lot of attention in the recent past is vegan leather made from coconut water with a very interesting brand name – Malai and the company called Malai Design and Material Pvt. Ltd. or Malai biomaterials.   The winner of the Lakme Circular Design Challenge award. The product and the journey of the founders is...

Working on restoring a carpet - rafoogar  from Najibabad  I met the craftsmen or rafoogars at an exhibition organised in Delhi to display the work of the craftsmen by Priya Ravish Mehra. She of course was not well and hospitalised and I was told supervised most of the work via skype or video calls from her hospital bed. She was suffering from cancer and breathed her last in May 2018. What remains there is her remarkable work with the rafoogars of Najibabad for whom she created a platform to meet artists, connoisseurs, art collectors, historians…to whom their work was remarkable and valuable. How else can one describe dexterous hands which can repair a 200 year old Pashmina shawl or an equally priceless carpet. Priya’s tryst with them began when she remembered how these darners would come to her grandfather’s house at Najibabad and work on old textiles to mend, a tear or a hole so well that one could rarely know where the tear was. Priya Ravish Mehra, a textile historian, reviv...