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SOURCING HUB - CRAFTS DONE IN JAIPUR

We give a brief dictionary on traditional work from Rajasthan, a lot of which finds its way to Jaipur. The intricacies of each process varies and is complicated to say the least - from making the blocks to the process of printing, from tying the knots to the dyeing. We provide a brief glimpse of the same.

Weaving

Though now most of the work of dyeing, printing is done on fabric procured from elsewhere, Rajasthan did have a tradition of its own weaving.

Masuriya Cotton – The very fine, muslin cotton is termed masuriya. Now even combinations with silk is called masuriya.

Kota Doria – Here two types of yarn one thicker like 80 counts is combined with finer yarn counts of 120. The handloom weaving results in the fringes of thicker counts whicle the inner is of finer counts. The uneven counts in the cloth can be seen and this results in a better fall for the fabric.

Dyeing

Bandhej – The traditional tie and dye technique. There are variations in terms of designs that are formed each of which are known by different names. Some complicated ones use rice for tying. The microscopic formations are difficult to duplicate. The Bandhej from the Shekhawati region is well known for its intricacy and beauty.

Leheriya -  Meaning like a tide akin to tidal waves. The dyeing is done in wrap resist technique. The fabric is folded or rolled, and then tightly tied and then dyed, this creates a diagonal or horizontal dyed effect depending on how the cloth is initially folded. When the same technique is repeated, the effect created is checkered. Some leheriya pieces of cloth have 5 colour or 7 colour combinations.

 

Do Rookha Dyeing – A very special manner of dyeing in which both the sides of cloth are dyed in different colours. Colour fastness though is said to be a casualty here.    

Block Printing 



Dabu block printing – It is the direct block printing or resist printing. The materials used are wax, clay and resins.

Bagru – The motifs of the block prints from this area are large with bold lines. Dark colours of red, blue or yellow are used. The inspiration are wild flowers, trees, leaves, geometric patterns. It is in a bold format and the look is bold. The method of printing here is called Bagru earth

Dabu. The process does not involve the use of too many washings.

Sanganer – As opposed to the Bagru, the prints from the town of  Sanganer called Sanganari prints are basically done on a white background. These prints are very delicate and the motifs are softer. The inspiration is from English flowers like poppies, iris, roses and lilies. The colours and look is subtle unlike the usual repertoire of bright colourful Rajasthani textiles. 

Akola -  It is more or less like Bagru.

Ajrakh – Typically from Barmer, it is done in dark shades. Printing in bright shades of blue, red or green. Geometric patterns, abstract prints are its characteristics.  

Gold printing – This is a technique evolved indigenously to Jaipur. The work done with gold, silver, brass or copper on objects was replicated on to cloth. In this printing is done with gold leaf, silver leaf or dust or mica. An adhesive is used which allows the mica, gold or silver to settle permanently. This gives the delicate glint to the motifs.

Nathadwar block printing – Though famous for the Pichhwai paintings, the block printing tradition is unique. The blocks are made of sandalwood. The use of the sandalwood blocks on cloth for printing imparts the smell of sandalwood to the cloth. The fabric when washed gives off a whiff of sandal perfume. Well, nice smelling fabrics indeed!!!

Embroidery – Using the basic stitches of cross, running or chain stitches, with embroidery, shells, tassles, the women create some exquisite needle work masterpieces. Highly in demand for furnishings, garments and accessories (belts, handbags…)

 

 

(We have compiled a very small list of traditional work from this area. We will like to keep it updated adding to it all types of work on textiles be it with hands or machines. Our point, so long as it is done on textiles in Jaipur we carry it. So if you know of more such textile applications please let us know and we will add to our ever growing list! )

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