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SOURCING HUB - Handloom Clusters – Part II - The Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Scheme helping the handloom clusters grow

 (We had broadly defined the scheme in our earlier post, this one speaks more of the clusters in some detail.)

The Pilot Scheme – The pilot scheme which can be replicated has been set up at various places and


today there are 20 pilot projects. These are at Bargarh, Barabanki, Bhagalpur, Bijoy Nagar, Bijnore, Burdwan, Chirala, Gadag, Chanderi / Gwalior, Imphal, Kullu, Kurinjipadi, Madhavaram, Mubarakpur, Nadia, Sonepur, Thiruvannamalai, Trichy, Thiruvananthapuram and Varanasi. Spread across the country, the products in each of the cluster as diverse as it can get. The implementation agency which also looks at co-ordination is different in each of these clusters but what stands out is the range of products which have been developed exclusively in each of the sectors. Some of them so strong that it is used as a sourcing base by designers both Indian and International.

For example Bargarh in Orissa though a traditional hot bed for ikkat and tie and dye, the products have been innovated upon to make some different products especially dress material and more importantly curtains and home furnishing. Similarly from Bhagalpur, the haven for silk makes excellent stoles, stitched kurtas, dresses….BijoyNagar in Kamrup Assam specializes in some excellent innovative cotton products. The traditional Muga sarees, silk mekhela chaddhar designs have been transformed into more market oriented chic sophisticated ones with innovations like eri shawl, stoles, cushion covers…. Chirala of real madras handkerchief fame, is a well developed Cluster. It specializes in the use of fly shuttle loom which is further added on with barrel dobby, lattice dobby, jacquard. Smaller designs with 24 threads extra warp design are used to weave dhoties while lattice dobby is used to make designs with 48 threads of extra warp designs. Jacquard looms weave designs with extra warp and weft. Traditional low priced products which were once woven are today woven along with high cost products especially sarees. Thirvuanathapuram cluster specializes in the traditional white with zari border traditional sarees , the famed Balarampuram sarees / dhoties, woven painstakingly. Now the repertoire extends to other products like cotton shirt cloth….

Each cluster has its own strength, what it offers is a sourcing hub for fabrics, embroidery and more. In most of the cases the implementing agency is also a marketing organization which is well equipped to deal with orders. For example, the Chirala Cluster the implementing agency is APCO (The Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd.). which has its network across the country. Similarly the Thiruvananthapuram cluster the implementing agency is Haneev – Kerala State Handloom Development Corporation Ltd., Kannur, Kerala. Kurunjipadi cluster has Co-optex as the implementing agency. Each of these agencies has a wide marketing network, showrooms, participation in exhibition which gives it a professional edge.

What further boosts working with these clusters is that several of them are equipped with yarn banks and dyeing units. Meaning, the buyers can order and the cluster has the resources to process the orders. It is not like dealing with a single handloom weaver, where the buyer may have to get involved with everything from buying of the yarn to the colours and means of dyeing. Vegetable dyeing unit has also been set up. Here the process is more professional. Another big plus is that many of these clusters work with designers from NID and NIFT to come out with some innovative extraordinary designs. Buyers can take a pick from these, there is also innovation in the mix of yarns like muga / eri / with jute / cotton…etc. Existing stock is also available. The clusters are a huge boon to designers who can get smaller quantities in innovative designs and in as many colours of their choice.

Cluster development apart from providing livelihood and keeping alive the craft, today offers a platform for interaction with the weavers by the buyers on a bulk buying basis. It is possible to negotiate quantities akin to a professional powerloom supplier for buying quantities. Of course, the distance, having to travel to the place can pose a problem. A more attractive solution is to contact the cluster groups via the various buyer-seller meets held from time to time or through the various exhibitions that they participate in.

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