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INSPIRATIONALLY YOURS - KUBA CLOTH FROM DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO


 I had chanced upon this cloth at a local exhibition here, they looked rustic, intricate and were being sold by artisan from Congo. They didn’t understand a word of English. Interpreters provided by the Embassy were able to tell the price of each through translation and nothing beyond. With my textile fund budget exhausted, I let go of it and providentially maybe will find another opportunity to get it. I shot several photographs and it lay on my laptop, till research revealed it was the venerable Kuba cloth. Kuba cloth is a woven tradition of the Kuba people of Democratic Republic of Congo formerly Zaire. There are over 18 ethnic groups who weave Kuba cloth. Woven out of Raffia, the fibre of the Raphia Vinifera Palm, the process is time consuming. The weaving is done by the men while the embroidery or embellishment is carried out by the women. The process involves preparing the fibre, dying it using natural colours, weaving the basic cloth, embellishing the woven cloth with embroidery, appliqué and patchwork. Basically two types of kuba fabrics exist – small embroidered squares and the larger rectangular ones. The larger ones tend to be decorated with appliqué and other techniques including cut-pile embroidery.

Kuba cloth is a study of the ways, tradition of the various sub groups of this region. Most researchers speak of 18 such distinct groups. The cloth when touched by hand feels more like starched silk. It is like organdie cloth, quite stiff, almost papery. Despite this appearance, the cloth is very sturdy and is used to fashion out apparel. It also lasts a good number of years. The cloth is woven using Raffia which is the fibre of Raphia Vinifera Palm. This tree

also found in parts of South India. The Palm leaves are collected sorted and worked on by the entire family.  The process of extraction, wetting of the palm leaf weaving using heddle looms is a long drawn process. The dyeing is done using vegetable colours. There are plenty of articles online which give a glimpse of the process.  The process may seem complicated, but the result is eye catchingly beautiful. The weaving is done by the men whilethe embroidery or embellishment is carried out by the women.  

My bad, I was not able to do much of an interview. The artisans were there to sell and asking them for information without buying anything seemed unfair. So a better day and deeper pocket may unravel the secrets.

Nearly 200 designs have been documented  and there are others amongst the sub styles. It is this rich geometrical motif and design with a few colours attractively combined giving impression of animal patterns which is truly inspirational! India is endowed with a lot of palm trees, can such fabrics be woven out of palms from India, the experimentation is definitely worth a try. Or better still, can silk sarees be made drawing inspiration from the rich Kuba motifs and colour combination. That will be the day, when design truly goes global!!!

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