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TECHNICAL UPDATE - INDIAN STANDARDS FORMULATED BY APEDA


Given this thrust on organic cotton, it is but natural that there should be put in place a system or a set of guidelines for its certification. It is also a way to ensure that the tag organic cotton is used consciously and not frivolously to make a fast buck. Apart from the international norms, APEDA (Agriculture produce export development agency) has recently come out with Indian Standards for Organic Textiles (ISOT) in association with NPOP (National Programme for Organic Production) under Department of Commerce, Ministry of Commerce and Industry. These standards were launched in July 2012.

The reason for coming out with such a guideline is that with the growing demand for organic textiles, there needs to be a consolidated body to support organic claims of the textile industry. ISOT has been developed under the NPOP with a particular focus on Indian manufacturers of organic textiles. Also since there are standards for organic food across the world and there needs to be an imperative guide for apparel. With India being one of the largest producer of organic cotton, a guide for textiles was the need of the hour. The existing guidelines were those formulated by private players. To provide for a system of certification which will support the claims of the manufacturer with an impeccable seal was the focus of these standards. The certification standards have been formulated by a Technical Committee (textiles) of the NPOP.

The certification covers the organic status of fibre in textiles and apparel from cultivation and harvesting of organic cotton through processing and labeling.  It is a certification that the fibre used is organic and the making of the apparel has been done socially and environmentally. The NPOP certification will be given if the production and manufacture is as per this standard. It includes all processes in the production i.e. cultivation, production of organic fibres, the manufacturing, processing, packaging, labeling and distribution of organic textiles. The final product comprising fibres, yarns, fabrics, made-up and garments including home textiles products. The labeling is done as organic or giving the percentage content of organic fibre in the product. As far as the label is concerned, if 95% of the product contains certified organic fibre as per the standard, it can be labeled “organic” or “organic in conversion”. The non-organic content of 5% can be composed of regenerated and man made fibre – regenerated cellulose fibres – viscose, acetate and lyocell. Polyester made from post consumer recycled material, polyurethane (elastane) and polyamide.

“Made with organic fibre” label will be used if the organic fibre content is between70% to 95% both figures are non inclusive. In this case the textiles can be labeled as “made with organic fibre”. The balance of 30% composition is to be natural fibre not GMO fibre and or synthetic regenerated fibre in the ratio 3:1.

Apart from this there are several other parameters for accessories, in the use of material for appliqué or embroidery, for metal part in apparel. Metal that is free from chrome and nickel is permitted. Then there are series of guidelines regarding environment management. This includes policies and procedures as laid down by the State and Central Pollution Control Boards respectively. There are regulations for controlling air and water pollution as well as for solid waste management to minimize wastage. Optimum use of water, energy, dyes and more. Waste water treatment should meet the guidelines laid down by the Pollution Control Boards of the State respectively. Another important aspect deals with the storage, packaging and transport of the goods. The packaging materials must be free from PVC or external treatment like biocide or pesticides. Documentation and Internal Quality assurance also plays a key role. The standard comes with a series of guidelines and guidance for the use of chemicals and residues.

The standard is an indigenous one as developed by the Government for the benefit of those involved in the production of organic textiles and apparel. It takes a lot from the guidelines as formulated under GOTS.

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