BOOK REVIEW - Divyambara (Masterpieces of costume from the Collection of the National Museum) by Dr. Lotika Vardarajan

We do a book review this time,  this book Divyambara (Masterpieces of costume from the Collection of the National Museum) by Dr. Lotika Vardarajan with contribution from Sushmit Sharma brought out by the National Museum, New Delhi. Dr. Lotika Vardarajan, a Tagore Fellow passed away suddenly before the book could be released. It is an ideal tribute to her vast knowledge, enthusiasm and spirit in the world of revival and documentation of traditional crafts, arts and preservation of heritage of the country. The book can be called a catalogue, anthology, brief history of sorts of the textile collection at the National Museum. It traces the origins of the textile department which falls under the section of Decorative Arts and then the building of the collection. There are interesting insights which one does not get to hear.

The introduction by Dr. Mani clearly states that unlike other Museums which had a repertoire of collected textiles presented to them or gifted to them to begin with, that of National Museum has been built by scratch procuring from many sources. This may seem a disadvantage as there is little history or background to draw from but it also presents the researcher with a blank slate to begin the research. Also it makes the collection more varied and interesting as each object has been procured for its own unique value. This probably stands out for anyone or organisation which wants to set up a Museum, by acquiring pieces from varied sources.

What stands out is that the several pieces of costume from the National Museum collection has been documented. The introduction by Dr. Lotika Vardarjan lays emphasis on the collection, and also the fact that the rules do not permit the dating of the object hence it is not possible to clearly say the time period or how old the piece might be. However, corroboration of material and evidence has been the only way of giving it a historical perspective. The collection is broadly divided into two sections – costumes worn by men and those by women.

In her write up Dr. Vardarajan has taken pains to explain the various terminology and their Hindi equivalent. Like how piping is called magaji. There are further referenced to the photos given in the book. Simplistic explanations make the understanding of fabrics very easy. Try this, brocades which have an extra warp or weft using metallic yarn are called Kinkhab while those done using silk are called amru. Atlas or Gajji silk is heavy silk woven in the satin weave and associated with Gujarat. The book is very richly illustrated with photographs and their detailing forming a large part of it

The experience of Dr. Vardarjan and her expertise with textiles comes through with her succinct yet complete explanations of term. It is neither complicated or high brow and makes for very interesting reading. There is complete explanation of tying, dyeing, weaving, embroidery, fabrics, tailoring making it a truly costume lovers delight. It does not focus on just one aspect of the garment or styling but about it as a whole. The compositeness of explanation of a garment and getting down to all its nuances makes for good reading. Zardozi is touched upon as also how with the advent of the British, the costume preferences of men underwent a change.

Broadly under men’s garments there is jama, angarkha, choga, kurta, Chapkun, achkan and sherwani….under women’s garments there is peshwaz, kanjari, kachali, abha, lehenga, gahgra, farshi pyjama…..

It is the costumes by women which also brings out certain lesser known details of textiles. There are blouses with one sided embroidery from Himachal Pradesh. Popularly called embroidery from Mandi, it is lesser known when compared to the Chamba Rumals. This one sided embroidery almost folkish resembles embroidery from Kutch and at times from Uzbekistan. It has not been studied in much depth though and neither any revival of it has ever been done. 

The combination of the styles with embroidery is a fashion designer’s delight. It can provide inspiration to designers who can refresh it to contemporary trends. They can draw inspiration from it for motifs, fabric combination, colours and more. There is fine embroidery on some which is breathtaking. There are measurements given of the costumes which makes calculations easy. The first Jama has a hemline which is a whopping 20 meters. It is gorgeous with the sheer volume of the skirt from the waist. The gher or kali as it is popularly called is magnificent. Aptly made of muslin, it makes for comfortable wearing. Twirling in this would have been something. Each piece showcased can be described at length, be it the piping, lining, colour combination of the fabric, its dyeing and weaving nuances. The fine lining with the brocade….All in all, a textile costume lover’s delight. Invaluable for a fashion designer.